Continental highs
SLOVENIA ROAD TRIP
Some of the world’s most beautiful roads are within a couple of days’ riding. Carl Stevens discovers the serpentine twists of Slovenia on Yamaha’s new Tracer 9 GT and GT+
Words Carl Stevens Pictures Yamaha
The roads heading into Slovenia are ace – and only get better the further you go
VISITING SLOVENIA
Distance from Calais 840 miles
Why it’s great Slovenia boasts stunning Alpine scenery, smooth roads, less traffic, friendly locals and beautiful lakes and forests – perfect for touring motorcyclists.
When to go Between late May and early October, when the weather is warm and mountain passes are open.
Best roads Ride the Vršič Pass with its famous hairpins, and explore Mangart Saddle, Triglav National Park, Soča Valley, Loibl Pass, and the stretch from Lake Bled to Bohinj.
While you’re there Don’t miss Lake Bled, known for its picturesque island church, clifftop castle and emerald waters in a mountain setting.
TOURING DOESN’T HAVE to be the usual treks to Spain and Portugal, or exploring the south of France. There is a whole world to explore. Last month editor Matt rode the roads of Croatia, but you don’t have to go that far. Head east through France and Austria into Slovenia, and you’ll be rewarded with some of the finest roads on the planet, views that are so beautiful your eyes feel like they’ve been upgraded to high definition, and such a variety of weather, landscapes and environments that you feel like you’re crossing continents rather than a country.
You can be rolling alongside 10ft of snow in the mountains on a glorious mountain pass, then 20 minutes later you’re sweating while riding through sun adorned forests alongside stunning lakes and rivers.
Starting strong
Before that, there’s the small matter of crossing Europe to reach Slovenia’s good stuff.
The Eurotunnel is quick and effective, and once the other side it’s all about making the most of the time. We love France and there’s so much to explore, but for the purpose of this trip it’s a motorway blast to cover the miles. It’s tempting to get lost in the rolling countryside, but not doing so is worth it as it allows you to spend more time further east.
Saying that, a ride through France isn’t complete without a stop for some good food, and quick pit stop for a picture in Reims. An old racetrack pit complex that’s still maintained and looking smart on a main road? It gives me goosebumps every time I stop.
Up in Austrian heaven
Austria is not only the land of rolling hills, glorious food and even better beer (for when you’ve finished riding, of course), but it’s also home to some incredible roads – and one you can’t miss out on is the Grossglockner High Alpine Road.
The Grossglockner is Austria’s highest mountain, and the Alpine Road is a toll road that’s 30 miles of sheer beauty, laced in glorious tarmac and incredible corners. It’s €35 for the pleasure, but well worth the cost; it isn’t dubbed ‘Austria’s best view’ by mistake.
Lake Sandersee, along the mighty Grossglockner Pass in Austria. The ideal way to kick off your ride into Slovenia
It’s S-love-nia
But that’s just the taster. The real, unsung destination in Europe comes from navigating the Julian Alps, a range that stretches from north-east Italy into Slovenia.
Open the map app on your phone, fire in the Vršič Pass and head there – and I’ll wait for a thank you letter in the post. That’s because it’s not only an incredible road to ride, with switchback hairpin after switchback hairpin; the views are also staggeringly breathtaking. If you look up ‘beautiful’ in a dictionary, its definition should be the landscape surrounding the Vršič Pass.
It’s also the highest pass in Slovenia. At over 1600m up, the tarmac cuts through the mountains in such a way that it feels like it’s been sculpted purely for the enjoyment of motorcyclists, and whatever pace you fancy rolling at, it will reward you.
But that wasn’t the case. The Vršič Pass is on Route 206, which runs from Bovec to Kranjska Gora and is known as Ruska cesta (‘Russian road’) to commemorate the Russian prisoners of war who were forced to build it by Austro-Hungarian authorities during the First World War, then keep it clear of snow during the winter.
Where’d those trees come from? They were mountains a few corners back
Some stretches are wide and open, but at the heart of the pass are 50 tight hairpins that wind through a national park. You’ll need your wits about you – some of the corners are paved with cobblestones, but that makes them feel even more special.
Then there’s the scenery – on one corner you’ll have snow-covered mountains towering above you; the next the mountains are replaced by trees. It’s like riding through multiple countries in one go.
It’s not a section of road to ride flat out, but you won’t want to – there is so much to take in.
But you’ll want to ensure you have a good motorcycle underneath you. Something comfortable but with a sportier side that you know is reliable and won’t leave you stranded (phone signal isn’t great). Yamaha’s Tracer 9 GT is the perfect tool – it blends a good level of comfort and practicality with a feisty side when the road allows it – which is plenty of the time. Plus, some corners are very tight, so keep that in mind if you’re planning to cover a big cruiser in panniers.
“‘You feel like you’re crossing continents rather than a country’”
It’s 1600m up but the views along the Vršič Pass will have you light-headed with joy
It’s not just about the riding either. A host of locations are worth stopping at, and the route is filled with history that’s well worth exploring. The Russian Orthodox chapel, for example, is a must – it was built by Hairpin 8 (every hairpin is numbered) by Russian First World War prisoners on the site of a snow clearing camp to remember comrades who were buried by an avalanche.
If it’s hot, a host of nearby waterfalls and crystal-clear natural lakes offer the opportunity for a swim and cooling dip. The Soča River, the Tolmin Gorges and the Virje waterfall all look like they’ve been lifted straight from a Disney fairytale, so take your time and enjoy.
A bit out of the way, on the Italy/Slovenia border, is the Sentiero del Lago inferiore – and on its bank is a lovely restaurant, bar and hotel. Cracking local food and the surroundings are out of this world. Highly recommend. Sure, you can visit loads of places on the continent, and many of these routes and locations will reward you with incredible tarmac, memorable rides and glorious landscapes. But the next time you cross the Channel, go that little bit further and explore the lesser-known glory of Europe – you’ll be seriously rewarded for your troubles.
Calais to Slovenia: almost 1000 miles of touring euphoria
HOW MUCH DOES IT COST?
Eurotunnel £160
Fuel (2500 miles) £330
Accommodation £600
Food and drink £500
Extras (tolls, roads) £250
Total £1840
Getting there
This will depend on how much time you have. From the Eurotunnel, we headed to Reims and bashed out the motorway mileage across France. With a quick stop in the bag, we stopped the night near Metz. The following day you can head into Germany and take the quickest route around the top of Munich, or hug the top of Switzerland and head through Austria (our preferred route). Just remember to stop off at the Grossglo Pass on the way through. Then it’s south into Slovenia and into your riding haven.
Map data ©2025 Google, GeoBasis-DE/BKG (©2009). Inst. Geogr. Nacional
THE FACTS
Price £17,004 (GT+ Y-AMT)
Engine 890cc DOHC inline triple, 4v per cyl, l/c
Power 117bhp @ 10,000rpm
Torque 69lb·ft @ 7000rpm
Fuel capacity 19 litres
Seat height 845/865mm
Wheelbase 1500mm
Kerb weight 232kg
Rider aids Cornering ABS, traction control, wheelie control, riding modes, Y-AMT transmission, Matrix lighting, adaptive cruise control, blind spot detection, navigation, semi-active suspension, tyre pressure monitoring
‘Perfect for touring’
Carl clocked more than 2500 miles on the new Tracer 9 GT and the GT+. This is what he thought of the range-topper as a distance machine…
Tracer’s practicality is perfect – but it also enjoys showing its sporty side
RIDER AIDS
Cruise control is easy to use, intuitive, and makes long-distance runs less tiring. The dash is clear, but the built-in satnav is cumbersome and dated, struggling with newer roads and roundabouts. On the GT+, adaptive cruise control is almost too cautious, leaving a large gap to the car in front. The forward collision warning is very sensitive and somewhat annoying, although it can be switched off. These rider aids work, but their implementation isn’t always flawless.
HANDLING
The suspension is well judged for its touring intentions; comfortable and calm, yet capable of hustling through corners when required. Each new generation of Tracer gets slightly more touring-oriented, but it can still pull some shapes when asked. Brakes and ABS are average – functional but not especially inspiring. The standard fitment tyres perform reliably over distance, and the panniers with central locking are practical additions for real-world touring.
WIND PROTECTION
Wind protection is generally good, aided by an adjustable screen. However, taller riders will notice some buffeting, especially compared to rivals like the Triumph Tiger Sport 800, largely due to the windscreen’s shape. Shorter riders are much better sheltered behind the fairing. The new LED matrix lights are a highlight – bright, effective, and adaptive, automatically dipping and adjusting to other vehicles or ambient light. Riding at night or through poorly lit areas is genuinely improved by this lighting system.
RANGE
Fuel consumption is decent for this class. Expect around 150 miles from a tank if you’re riding enthusiastically; more relaxed riding should get you closer to 180 or 190 miles. The tank itself is spacious, and you can really lean on it on long journeys. This isn’t an ultra long range tourer, but you can comfortably cover a couple of hours between fuel stops.
ENGINE
The three-cylinder engine is a gem. It runs quietly and smoothly at cruising speeds (70–80mph), but has real punch and character when pushed, especially in second and third gears. There’s enough power for spirited riding, but you can sit at motorway speeds all day comfortably. The engine’s soundtrack is subtle yet engaging, lending the bike a lively personality despite its touring focus.
COMFORT
Comfort is a standout feature on this bike, especially for average-sized riders. At 5ft 7in with a 28in leg, I found the seat, peg and handlebar positions very well judged, creating a pleasant riding triangle. Taller riders (5ft 10in and taller) may feel more cramped. The standard seat is not particularly plush, but the comfort seat upgrade is excellent – arguably even better than the supposedly exclusive GT+ seat. The tank’s shape is great for resting on longer trips, and the mirrors provide a clear view. Yamaha’s Y-AMT is the only gearbox option for the GT+ but makes the bike easy to ride in dense traffic or at low speeds, saving physical and mental energy on long days.